I'm still up in Bradford.
As I've said before, I've been working for the last 6 days straight so my only climbing has been two sessions at the Leeds Wall. Both sessions were just trying to climb 10 routes around F6b - F6c with Matt.
The first session I didnt' feel well rested, hadn't eaten properly and as expected, didn't perform incredibly well. I still managed to get a F6c done though.
The second session went much better. I felt much more energised and confident. The session culminated in me trying to onsight a F7a, the first time I'd tried this indoors. The route was up the steepest section of the main wall, so obviously had good holds. I spent a bit of time really looking at the route from the ground, going through the sequence in my head and I think this really benefited my performance, allowing me to climb quickly and smoothly through the steepness.
Onsighting this route has imbued a new sense of confidence to my preparations. I also purchased a copy of Sport Climbing +, a book I have been eyeing up for a while, and after reading it once I think I've already picked up some things that will contribute to an increase in my grade.
There's only 5 days 'til Mallorca now. I'm horribly excited, really psyched and completely focussed.
My last bit of preparation is to lose 4lbs, bringing my weight down to 10 stone, 5lbs. This would be the lightest I've been in years is an acheivable way of improving my performance.
Sunday, 12 April 2009
Sunday, 5 April 2009
from south to west
I've finished lectures for Easter so I've moved back up to my parents house in Bradford for two weeks before I go to Mallorca. I'm working for the next 6 days so I won't have much chance to take advantage of my freedom. A couple of evening sessions at Leeds Wall or Shipley Glen should keep me ticking over. And its a good chance to grow back some of the skin I've lost through the last couple of months. I haven't had a top layer on my right index finger for weeks!
Last Thursday I went to the Climbing Works and, as a demonstration of my current level of fitness, I climbed all but two of the new purple/spotty circuit problems that ranged from 6b - 7a.
On Friday I sacked off essay writing to take advantage of the good weather. Though I made a tactical error and went to Stanage for the afternoon. It was horribly greasy and I couldn't touch any of the problems I had come to try.
I searched for shade and played on Brad Pit. I got bored of the first move and set off to the Buckstone. As I'd hoped, the Buckstone Dyno (7b) was in the shade and I latched the top in 5 goes.
This was a good consolation prize for an afternoon where I spent more time walking than climbing!
Last Thursday I went to the Climbing Works and, as a demonstration of my current level of fitness, I climbed all but two of the new purple/spotty circuit problems that ranged from 6b - 7a.
On Friday I sacked off essay writing to take advantage of the good weather. Though I made a tactical error and went to Stanage for the afternoon. It was horribly greasy and I couldn't touch any of the problems I had come to try.
I searched for shade and played on Brad Pit. I got bored of the first move and set off to the Buckstone. As I'd hoped, the Buckstone Dyno (7b) was in the shade and I latched the top in 5 goes.
This was a good consolation prize for an afternoon where I spent more time walking than climbing!
Tuesday, 31 March 2009
school boy
I'm trying to keep up a steady two on, one off climbing routine at the moment in an effort to build up some fitness for Mallorca. Sunday, as most of you will know, was a day of fantastic weather and muchos muchos psyche.
I had a late start, but thanks to British Summer Time we climbed until about half 7 in the evening. I was out with Dave, Toby and Tom and top of the list was the Weedkiller Traverse at Raven Tor where Dave and I had unfinished business. I warmed up on the last moves, using a different hold to my previous efforts, then sent it first go. Dave cleaned it up in a few goes.
I watched Toby send the classic Undercut, Sloper problem and got psyched to try the Undercut, Crimp version, a grade easier at 7b+. This went down in a few goes and then I spent some time trashing the skin on my right fingertips trying the Sloper version.
Next, Toby showed me the Direct Start to Wild In Me, going at about 7b and finishing with a long reach from positive crimps to a knifeblade edge. I did this quality problem quite quickly.
These three problems added up to the best day bouldering I've had in ages - not just in terms of numbers - but in terms of atmosphere and sheer enjoyment. After some goes at Pump Up the Power where I got one move further (I'm trying it ground up as a boulder problem rather than working it as a route) we piled into the car and drove round to Rubicon.
Me and Toby went to the Kudos wall and while I sent A Bigger Splash Direct, Dave and Tom had a go each on Rubicon (F7a+). This is a route I have wanted to onsight for a while but I couldn't help but pick up some beta from them. Dave climbed it second go, leaving the clips in for me to have a go.
School boy error!
My thought process here should have been, "I've done three 7b problems, its the end of the day, I'm shattered, I can come back and do this first go anytime, leave it." But instead, I tied in, climbed to the first bolt, clipped and down climbed. I felt good. I pulled back on, climbed to the third bolt and rested on the enormous jug supplied. Then, feet up, stretched to a crimp, pulled and... nothing. I wasn't pumped at all, there was just no more pull in my arms. I tried to bring my hand back down to the jug but came off.
I was so irritated, and I still am. I finished up the climb in a huff and lowered off. I've definately learnt something here, but I should have already known it.
Yesterday I ached everywhere, and my elbow was really sore. Still, I forced myself to have an easy day at the Works with my girlfriend and then retired gracefully.
The next two days are going to be sport climbing or traverses only.
I'm so annoyed! I would definately trade the three boulder problems I did for the onsight of Rubicon. It was a short term goal too. Aaargh! Oh well. It has been relaced with A Little Extra at the Tor as the F7a+ to onsight.
Oh yeah, I've found the battery charger for my camera, and I'm pretty pleased with some of the shots I got.
I had a late start, but thanks to British Summer Time we climbed until about half 7 in the evening. I was out with Dave, Toby and Tom and top of the list was the Weedkiller Traverse at Raven Tor where Dave and I had unfinished business. I warmed up on the last moves, using a different hold to my previous efforts, then sent it first go. Dave cleaned it up in a few goes.
I watched Toby send the classic Undercut, Sloper problem and got psyched to try the Undercut, Crimp version, a grade easier at 7b+. This went down in a few goes and then I spent some time trashing the skin on my right fingertips trying the Sloper version.
Next, Toby showed me the Direct Start to Wild In Me, going at about 7b and finishing with a long reach from positive crimps to a knifeblade edge. I did this quality problem quite quickly.
These three problems added up to the best day bouldering I've had in ages - not just in terms of numbers - but in terms of atmosphere and sheer enjoyment. After some goes at Pump Up the Power where I got one move further (I'm trying it ground up as a boulder problem rather than working it as a route) we piled into the car and drove round to Rubicon.
Me and Toby went to the Kudos wall and while I sent A Bigger Splash Direct, Dave and Tom had a go each on Rubicon (F7a+). This is a route I have wanted to onsight for a while but I couldn't help but pick up some beta from them. Dave climbed it second go, leaving the clips in for me to have a go.
School boy error!
My thought process here should have been, "I've done three 7b problems, its the end of the day, I'm shattered, I can come back and do this first go anytime, leave it." But instead, I tied in, climbed to the first bolt, clipped and down climbed. I felt good. I pulled back on, climbed to the third bolt and rested on the enormous jug supplied. Then, feet up, stretched to a crimp, pulled and... nothing. I wasn't pumped at all, there was just no more pull in my arms. I tried to bring my hand back down to the jug but came off.
I was so irritated, and I still am. I finished up the climb in a huff and lowered off. I've definately learnt something here, but I should have already known it.
Yesterday I ached everywhere, and my elbow was really sore. Still, I forced myself to have an easy day at the Works with my girlfriend and then retired gracefully.
The next two days are going to be sport climbing or traverses only.
I'm so annoyed! I would definately trade the three boulder problems I did for the onsight of Rubicon. It was a short term goal too. Aaargh! Oh well. It has been relaced with A Little Extra at the Tor as the F7a+ to onsight.
Oh yeah, I've found the battery charger for my camera, and I'm pretty pleased with some of the shots I got.
Saturday, 28 March 2009
something stupid
I've spent the last two days with my brother at Malham Cove, the only rock to stay dry in the current showery weather.
We rocked up on Thursday and, after relearning the sequence for Consenting Adults to warm up, we got on Something Stupid. This 12m route forms the first section of The Groove and is F7b. It is technical and fingery and really quite different to the 20m routes we'd been doing at Horseshoe. Matt worked out a sequence for the bottom and I figured something out for the top section.
After a second play on toprope I felt ready to lead it. Matt went first and fell near the top. On my attempt I messed up the bottom sequence slightly but managed to complete the climb.
This was my first F7b and I was really chuffed to do it in one session, first redpoint. I finished with another lap on Consenting Adults.
The next day I felt pretty beaten up but I caught the train to Matt's again and we had a morning session at the Cove. The conditions were a lot colder and there was a strong wind buffeting the catwalk.
We warmed up on Consenting Adults again and then Matt went for the lead on Something Stupid. He got closer and closer on each of his three goes but just couldn't quite hang in there. I had two goes on toprope first doing it in two halves and then doing it from the bottom jugs.
I ached so much and my skin was so trashed we decided not to bother getting on any other routes. I did two laps of Consenting Adults in quick succession and we left.
There are a couple of issues I noticed over these two days that need to be addressed in the next couple of weeks. Firstly, my fitness is clearly rubbish as two days of sport climbing nearly crippled me! Secondly, I get pumped much more quickly on crimps than on any other type of hold. I need to start using crimps more in my PE training to ensure this weakness is balanced out.
We rocked up on Thursday and, after relearning the sequence for Consenting Adults to warm up, we got on Something Stupid. This 12m route forms the first section of The Groove and is F7b. It is technical and fingery and really quite different to the 20m routes we'd been doing at Horseshoe. Matt worked out a sequence for the bottom and I figured something out for the top section.
After a second play on toprope I felt ready to lead it. Matt went first and fell near the top. On my attempt I messed up the bottom sequence slightly but managed to complete the climb.
This was my first F7b and I was really chuffed to do it in one session, first redpoint. I finished with another lap on Consenting Adults.
The next day I felt pretty beaten up but I caught the train to Matt's again and we had a morning session at the Cove. The conditions were a lot colder and there was a strong wind buffeting the catwalk.
We warmed up on Consenting Adults again and then Matt went for the lead on Something Stupid. He got closer and closer on each of his three goes but just couldn't quite hang in there. I had two goes on toprope first doing it in two halves and then doing it from the bottom jugs.
I ached so much and my skin was so trashed we decided not to bother getting on any other routes. I did two laps of Consenting Adults in quick succession and we left.
There are a couple of issues I noticed over these two days that need to be addressed in the next couple of weeks. Firstly, my fitness is clearly rubbish as two days of sport climbing nearly crippled me! Secondly, I get pumped much more quickly on crimps than on any other type of hold. I need to start using crimps more in my PE training to ensure this weakness is balanced out.
Wednesday, 25 March 2009
enduring
I haven't posted for a while, I've been losing interest in writing about my exploits, but here's an update.
On the 16th March I had a fingerboard session that caused my elbow to swell up and hurt. Since then I've sacked off physical training, have been icing my elbow and generally just taking it easy.
On the 18th I had an awesome afternoon at Horseshoe Quarry with Matt. The weather was fantastic and we had a relaxed time warming up on the Rotund Rooley/School's Out Link (F6a) then climbing Shot Yer Bolt (F6b+) and Megalithic Man (F6b+) onsight. Megalithic Man felt so easy compared to Shot Yer Bolt, at least a full grade easier. I feel really confident onsighting this level but F6c just intimidates me and F7a even more so. I think I get too worked up about it, overthink it and underperform.
The next day I caught the bus out on my own to Raven Tor for my first ever session there. My friends had raved to me about the Weedkiller Traverse so my goal for the day was to tick it. I warmed up on some of the route starts - Boot Boys (6c), A Little Extra Direct Start (7a) and then got sidetracked by some of the powerful problems that an aquaintance was trying. I did Rattle and Hump the hard way (apparently) but it felt about 7a+ to me. I didn't try the easy way as the starting pocket was dripping wet.
It finally felt time to get on Weedkiller and after I was shown the best sequence I jumped on. My first go went badly, on the first hard pull my right hand shot off a crimp and I fell back-first onto a rock. I walked it off and got back on and had about three decent goes, each time failing around the second to last move. This was frustrating but also gives me a clear power endurance yardstick to measure myself by. Next time I'll do it. The session after that I'll lap it. Then Powerband.
I'd love to get Powerband done before I go to Mallorca. A couple of other traverses need ticking as well, Rose... and Jerry's Traverse on the Business Boulder and the Mid-Height Traverse on the Calf, Ilkley. These should provide good solo training!
After my Raven Tor session I had to go home to earn some money so I had 4 rest days. Then yesterday I had a really good power endurance training session, doing circuits on a F6c circuit with 4.5 minutes rest. However this time around I forced myself to simulate onsight climbing, moving slowly, chalking up, hanging around on good holds, and 'clipping' every 5 moves. This meant that I was on the wall for 2 and a half minutes, a minute longer than in my previous PE phase. I managed 7 laps, failing two thirds of the way round the eighth and felt completely boxed but totally psyched. Next session (Friday) I'm going to do 9 laps of it. I'm hoping that, as it did in the first phase, my body will react quickly to the power endurance training.
Tomorrow I'm heading to either Giggleswick South or Malham depending on the weather. Mallorca is fast approaching and I need all the fitness I can muster! Adios.
On the 16th March I had a fingerboard session that caused my elbow to swell up and hurt. Since then I've sacked off physical training, have been icing my elbow and generally just taking it easy.
On the 18th I had an awesome afternoon at Horseshoe Quarry with Matt. The weather was fantastic and we had a relaxed time warming up on the Rotund Rooley/School's Out Link (F6a) then climbing Shot Yer Bolt (F6b+) and Megalithic Man (F6b+) onsight. Megalithic Man felt so easy compared to Shot Yer Bolt, at least a full grade easier. I feel really confident onsighting this level but F6c just intimidates me and F7a even more so. I think I get too worked up about it, overthink it and underperform.
The next day I caught the bus out on my own to Raven Tor for my first ever session there. My friends had raved to me about the Weedkiller Traverse so my goal for the day was to tick it. I warmed up on some of the route starts - Boot Boys (6c), A Little Extra Direct Start (7a) and then got sidetracked by some of the powerful problems that an aquaintance was trying. I did Rattle and Hump the hard way (apparently) but it felt about 7a+ to me. I didn't try the easy way as the starting pocket was dripping wet.
It finally felt time to get on Weedkiller and after I was shown the best sequence I jumped on. My first go went badly, on the first hard pull my right hand shot off a crimp and I fell back-first onto a rock. I walked it off and got back on and had about three decent goes, each time failing around the second to last move. This was frustrating but also gives me a clear power endurance yardstick to measure myself by. Next time I'll do it. The session after that I'll lap it. Then Powerband.
I'd love to get Powerband done before I go to Mallorca. A couple of other traverses need ticking as well, Rose... and Jerry's Traverse on the Business Boulder and the Mid-Height Traverse on the Calf, Ilkley. These should provide good solo training!
After my Raven Tor session I had to go home to earn some money so I had 4 rest days. Then yesterday I had a really good power endurance training session, doing circuits on a F6c circuit with 4.5 minutes rest. However this time around I forced myself to simulate onsight climbing, moving slowly, chalking up, hanging around on good holds, and 'clipping' every 5 moves. This meant that I was on the wall for 2 and a half minutes, a minute longer than in my previous PE phase. I managed 7 laps, failing two thirds of the way round the eighth and felt completely boxed but totally psyched. Next session (Friday) I'm going to do 9 laps of it. I'm hoping that, as it did in the first phase, my body will react quickly to the power endurance training.
Tomorrow I'm heading to either Giggleswick South or Malham depending on the weather. Mallorca is fast approaching and I need all the fitness I can muster! Adios.
Saturday, 14 March 2009
bugger bugger bugger
Training this week has not gone well. To summarise, I haven't done any. What I have done, is have 4 days on again. I guess I could fool myself into believing this is good training for my trip, but its not and I'm really frustrated with my lack of discipline.
Tuesday - Fingerboard
Wednesday - Matrix (shit session)
Thursday - Climbing Works (busted out a 1-4-7 on the big rungs, a PB.)
Friday - Horseshoe Quarry (got one route done before we were rained off).
If I had stuck to my plan I could have had some quality training this week. Instead I've just made my skin worse and got myself quite demotivated. There's just 4 weeks now until my trip, which means just 3 weeks of heavy training time left. I am going to have to knuckle down, man up and get on with 3 sessions of interval training a week to make up for the lost time.
Hopefully, I will find that my body adapts quite well again due to the long lay off inbetween power endurance cycles.
Tuesday - Fingerboard
Wednesday - Matrix (shit session)
Thursday - Climbing Works (busted out a 1-4-7 on the big rungs, a PB.)
Friday - Horseshoe Quarry (got one route done before we were rained off).
If I had stuck to my plan I could have had some quality training this week. Instead I've just made my skin worse and got myself quite demotivated. There's just 4 weeks now until my trip, which means just 3 weeks of heavy training time left. I am going to have to knuckle down, man up and get on with 3 sessions of interval training a week to make up for the lost time.
Hopefully, I will find that my body adapts quite well again due to the long lay off inbetween power endurance cycles.
Tuesday, 10 March 2009
rest
After my four days on I've had two days of complete rest and I feel so much better for it. My skin is still absolutely shagged but my upper body feels great.
I've waited til now to post about CWIF '09 because the scores finally came out today. I scored 145 and this placed me 52nd. Not quite where I hoped to come, but to say it was my fourth day on I'm still pretty pleased. It gives me something to aim for next year too. To get into the top 40 I'd need around 170 points (if the same people showed up and didn't improve...) so I'd need to flash 3 more problems.
I had a fingerboard session this afternoon to ease myself back into training. I followed the Neil Gresham workout which is basically sets of pull ups. This didn't seem to aggravate my elbow very much and has got me a'thinkin'.
My elbow feels worst on deep locks when I'm climbing. Since most of my training has been deadhangs at about 120 degrees, this hasn't really prepared my elbow for such deep locks. Therefore, if I keep training pull ups and lock off strength, then maybe my elbow won't react as badly to deep locks when I'm out climbing!
You may have noticed its now March 10th (why is this year going so fast?!) and, yes, I have failed to meet my short term goal of onsighting F7a. Ah well. I did try, and I did it second go... I think the main problem was just the lack of real sport climbing. But this month, the weather will be better, I'm a hell of a lot more motivated for routes and I've got a list ten strong of routes I'm going to climb before Mallorca.
Top of the list is Rubicon (F7a+). I am determined to onsight this and I think it will be good to have a specific route to train for. Basically I need to get good at hanging around on a steep roof while I work out a sequence. Or alternatively get better at reading sequences.
Jerry Moffatt in Tom's Roof
Happy training. I'm off to rest some more before I tear down Stoney Middleton tomorrow. Oh yeah, I still love Stoney. In fact, after watching One Summer last night I love it even more. Jerryatricks this month? You can bet your arse!
I've waited til now to post about CWIF '09 because the scores finally came out today. I scored 145 and this placed me 52nd. Not quite where I hoped to come, but to say it was my fourth day on I'm still pretty pleased. It gives me something to aim for next year too. To get into the top 40 I'd need around 170 points (if the same people showed up and didn't improve...) so I'd need to flash 3 more problems.
I had a fingerboard session this afternoon to ease myself back into training. I followed the Neil Gresham workout which is basically sets of pull ups. This didn't seem to aggravate my elbow very much and has got me a'thinkin'.
My elbow feels worst on deep locks when I'm climbing. Since most of my training has been deadhangs at about 120 degrees, this hasn't really prepared my elbow for such deep locks. Therefore, if I keep training pull ups and lock off strength, then maybe my elbow won't react as badly to deep locks when I'm out climbing!
You may have noticed its now March 10th (why is this year going so fast?!) and, yes, I have failed to meet my short term goal of onsighting F7a. Ah well. I did try, and I did it second go... I think the main problem was just the lack of real sport climbing. But this month, the weather will be better, I'm a hell of a lot more motivated for routes and I've got a list ten strong of routes I'm going to climb before Mallorca.
Top of the list is Rubicon (F7a+). I am determined to onsight this and I think it will be good to have a specific route to train for. Basically I need to get good at hanging around on a steep roof while I work out a sequence. Or alternatively get better at reading sequences.
Jerry Moffatt in Tom's Roof
Happy training. I'm off to rest some more before I tear down Stoney Middleton tomorrow. Oh yeah, I still love Stoney. In fact, after watching One Summer last night I love it even more. Jerryatricks this month? You can bet your arse!
Friday, 6 March 2009
three days on
My arms ache; my joints ache; I'm fatigued; my skin is absolutely trashed. Wednesday was Curbar, Yesterday the Matrix and today I went to Curbar again. This is the first time I've had more than two days on in ages and I am really feeling it.
Today I ticked Jihad on the Gorilla Warfare bloc in a couple of goes, along with repeats of all the problems I did on Wednesday. Not bad to say I was only going along to take photos of my friends Tom and Dave! I'm certainly glad I decided to stick my boots in my bag! It was another day of fantastic conditions when I was just glad to be out climbing.
Tomorrow will be my fourth day on and the CWIF will probably leave me completely spanked. I'm under no illusions, I don't think I'll perform well enough to qualify for the semi-finals, but I'd like to place fairly highly. Top forty would be nice and, hopefully, not inachievable!
I'm mildly concerned about my ability to cope with all this training though. My left elbow was aching quite a bit after today's session. It has calmed down now but its worrying me with only 6 weeks til my Mallorca trip. Hopefully getting back into route training will be just the change I need to keep any injuries at bay. I'm going to start looking into antagonistic muscle training too as I've read that elbow injuries can be caused by imbalances in the muscles.
Today I ticked Jihad on the Gorilla Warfare bloc in a couple of goes, along with repeats of all the problems I did on Wednesday. Not bad to say I was only going along to take photos of my friends Tom and Dave! I'm certainly glad I decided to stick my boots in my bag! It was another day of fantastic conditions when I was just glad to be out climbing.
Tomorrow will be my fourth day on and the CWIF will probably leave me completely spanked. I'm under no illusions, I don't think I'll perform well enough to qualify for the semi-finals, but I'd like to place fairly highly. Top forty would be nice and, hopefully, not inachievable!
I'm mildly concerned about my ability to cope with all this training though. My left elbow was aching quite a bit after today's session. It has calmed down now but its worrying me with only 6 weeks til my Mallorca trip. Hopefully getting back into route training will be just the change I need to keep any injuries at bay. I'm going to start looking into antagonistic muscle training too as I've read that elbow injuries can be caused by imbalances in the muscles.
Wednesday, 4 March 2009
getting sidetracked
I have had a fantastic day.
It really was just one of those days where everything seemed to go well. I went to Curbar in the afternoon with Toby and his friend Beth. As I usually do when I go somewhere I haven't been before, or in this case for three years, I spent the morning going through the guidebook picking things to do. But instead of picking a 7c that would probably take me a few sessions, I picked a couple of problems around the 7a mark and just thought, "It would be nice to get these done quickly."
We warmed up and I repeated Trackside in a few couple of goes. I was feeling strong, but my abs were horribly sore from a core workout I did yesterday (more on this later). I had a couple of goes on Play Hard, a 7c, but the conditions weren't great and I sacked it off. Toby and I did Sidetrack, the other side of the arete, and this was pretty cool.
Toby showed me Gorilla Warfare. Beth and Toby had both done this before and both gave me different beta. On my flash attempt I had to make a decision about which one to use and, guttingly, the one I chose didn't suit me and I came off. I climbed it second go, using the different method. Early Doors got climbed quickly too.
Its a strange feeling, being incredibly pleased to climb something second go, but just as frustrated that I didn't flash it. In the end, I'm just excited to get these problems done quickly. I do love a battle with a problem, drawn out over the course of weeks, but when I'm somewhere I don't visit often, ticking a few easier problems is, for me, satisfying, rewarding, fulfilling.
I had a fantastic day today. I climbed some excellent problems, got some great pictures and I'm completely psyched for climbing.
I'm having a brief indoor session tomorrow, resting resting resting on Friday and then going to the CWIF on Saturday. Then my bouldering phase is over, and power endurance will govern my climbing life for another four weeks.
It really was just one of those days where everything seemed to go well. I went to Curbar in the afternoon with Toby and his friend Beth. As I usually do when I go somewhere I haven't been before, or in this case for three years, I spent the morning going through the guidebook picking things to do. But instead of picking a 7c that would probably take me a few sessions, I picked a couple of problems around the 7a mark and just thought, "It would be nice to get these done quickly."
We warmed up and I repeated Trackside in a few couple of goes. I was feeling strong, but my abs were horribly sore from a core workout I did yesterday (more on this later). I had a couple of goes on Play Hard, a 7c, but the conditions weren't great and I sacked it off. Toby and I did Sidetrack, the other side of the arete, and this was pretty cool.
Toby showed me Gorilla Warfare. Beth and Toby had both done this before and both gave me different beta. On my flash attempt I had to make a decision about which one to use and, guttingly, the one I chose didn't suit me and I came off. I climbed it second go, using the different method. Early Doors got climbed quickly too.
Its a strange feeling, being incredibly pleased to climb something second go, but just as frustrated that I didn't flash it. In the end, I'm just excited to get these problems done quickly. I do love a battle with a problem, drawn out over the course of weeks, but when I'm somewhere I don't visit often, ticking a few easier problems is, for me, satisfying, rewarding, fulfilling.
I had a fantastic day today. I climbed some excellent problems, got some great pictures and I'm completely psyched for climbing.
I'm having a brief indoor session tomorrow, resting resting resting on Friday and then going to the CWIF on Saturday. Then my bouldering phase is over, and power endurance will govern my climbing life for another four weeks.
Monday, 2 March 2009
pen trwyn raiding
On the first day of the new month your dear narrator embarked upon a daring raid on North Wales. My brother drove us down and despite some rain on the way down, Llandudno was drenched in sunshine when we arrived at half past ten.
We warmed up in the Split Infinity cave, traversing and generally getting the fingers working. We moved into Parisella's Cave and I tried Rock Atrocity for fifteen minutes or so. I could do all the moves and linked from the start to matching on the flake. It is very powerful and fingery though, I think I need just a little extra to be able to crush it.
With my appetite for bouldering satisfied for a short while, we moved up the hill and Matt got straight on to Fears for Tears, a F6c. He lead it with little trouble and I lead it after. I got surprisingly pumped on it - too much trying to recover on good holds in a poor position, instead of pushing on through harder ground to a good rest.
We walked on to the next sector and I tried to onsight a F7a called Bring Back Fred Gwynne. It was really steep, but big holds. I made it to the second bolt after a couple of false starts but found myself very tired so rested on the bolt. I bolt to bolted the rest of the route. It was just too steep for me to hang around working out sequences! I was pretty frustrated but I armed Matt with my knowledge and encouragement and he had a wicked flash attempt, failing at the final section of hard climbing and only just - he missed a crimp by about 3 inches. Psyched by Matt's efforts I tied in and did it clean. I messed up the sequence at the top, I didn't quite get the crimp right and instead of adjusting I just cut loose, swung my feet round and pulled through to a good hold. Spicy, but excellent!
Here's a photo of me shortly before failure on my onsight attempt, trying to recover on jugs with no feet and not realising a knee bar could be had just one move away...
After this we played on some of the boulder problem starts to the routes nearby and then drove round the corner to do a F6a, Belay Bunny Bounces Back, a good climb and well within our capabilities. We drove on further and I had a play on Pill Box Original, a steep V6 problem, but didn't manage it.
I was feeling very tired by this point, it was about 4pm. Matt tied onto a F6b but couldn't get past the first bolt. We seemed to have hit a wall so we called it a day and drove back to Saltaire.
Some analysis then. It was a really good day trip and overall, I'm very pleased with it. However, it could have been much more successful if I hadn't had a split focus. I should have just concentrated on routes with Matt instead of playing on two very powerful boulder problems.
My endurance is still not up to snuff. I need to increase my stamina so that I can hold on long enough to work out sequences.
We warmed up in the Split Infinity cave, traversing and generally getting the fingers working. We moved into Parisella's Cave and I tried Rock Atrocity for fifteen minutes or so. I could do all the moves and linked from the start to matching on the flake. It is very powerful and fingery though, I think I need just a little extra to be able to crush it.
With my appetite for bouldering satisfied for a short while, we moved up the hill and Matt got straight on to Fears for Tears, a F6c. He lead it with little trouble and I lead it after. I got surprisingly pumped on it - too much trying to recover on good holds in a poor position, instead of pushing on through harder ground to a good rest.
We walked on to the next sector and I tried to onsight a F7a called Bring Back Fred Gwynne. It was really steep, but big holds. I made it to the second bolt after a couple of false starts but found myself very tired so rested on the bolt. I bolt to bolted the rest of the route. It was just too steep for me to hang around working out sequences! I was pretty frustrated but I armed Matt with my knowledge and encouragement and he had a wicked flash attempt, failing at the final section of hard climbing and only just - he missed a crimp by about 3 inches. Psyched by Matt's efforts I tied in and did it clean. I messed up the sequence at the top, I didn't quite get the crimp right and instead of adjusting I just cut loose, swung my feet round and pulled through to a good hold. Spicy, but excellent!
Here's a photo of me shortly before failure on my onsight attempt, trying to recover on jugs with no feet and not realising a knee bar could be had just one move away...
After this we played on some of the boulder problem starts to the routes nearby and then drove round the corner to do a F6a, Belay Bunny Bounces Back, a good climb and well within our capabilities. We drove on further and I had a play on Pill Box Original, a steep V6 problem, but didn't manage it.
I was feeling very tired by this point, it was about 4pm. Matt tied onto a F6b but couldn't get past the first bolt. We seemed to have hit a wall so we called it a day and drove back to Saltaire.
Some analysis then. It was a really good day trip and overall, I'm very pleased with it. However, it could have been much more successful if I hadn't had a split focus. I should have just concentrated on routes with Matt instead of playing on two very powerful boulder problems.
My endurance is still not up to snuff. I need to increase my stamina so that I can hold on long enough to work out sequences.
Wednesday, 25 February 2009
love on the limestone
I went to Stoney again today. I'm really enjoying it there and I feel that climbing on limestone as much as possible before my trip is only going to help my climbing in Mallorca!
I didn't get much done; Kirton's Dyno (7a+) went after a few goes.
I went to the Matrix after to meet my friend Toby, I seemed to peak very quickly. I climbed really well for ten minutes and then it all went to pot. I don't think I ate enough, I just felt really drained.
I'm resting now for a couple of days, it should be a climbing intensive weekend!
I didn't get much done; Kirton's Dyno (7a+) went after a few goes.
I went to the Matrix after to meet my friend Toby, I seemed to peak very quickly. I climbed really well for ten minutes and then it all went to pot. I don't think I ate enough, I just felt really drained.
I'm resting now for a couple of days, it should be a climbing intensive weekend!
Tuesday, 24 February 2009
recap
I haven't posted for a while. Things to do, you know?
I've managed to keep climbing though. I'll just give a quick run through the highlights of the last two weeks.
13/02 - Had a good bouldering session at the wall and felt really strong.
15/02 - Did some power endurance training. Intervals on the leading wall at Leeds. It was really good, and a lot harder on a lead wall where you have to clip!
18/02 - Had a long session at the Foundry doing routes. Did around ten routes up to F6b+. Good times!
22/02 - Went to Shipley Glen and had a good boulder. Did a 7b I hadn't done before, plus a few other problems around 7a.
I think power endurance is going to take a backseat for a couple of weeks. I'm really really motivated to try and climb V10 while I'm feeling strong.
I've managed to keep climbing though. I'll just give a quick run through the highlights of the last two weeks.
13/02 - Had a good bouldering session at the wall and felt really strong.
15/02 - Did some power endurance training. Intervals on the leading wall at Leeds. It was really good, and a lot harder on a lead wall where you have to clip!
18/02 - Had a long session at the Foundry doing routes. Did around ten routes up to F6b+. Good times!
22/02 - Went to Shipley Glen and had a good boulder. Did a 7b I hadn't done before, plus a few other problems around 7a.
I think power endurance is going to take a backseat for a couple of weeks. I'm really really motivated to try and climb V10 while I'm feeling strong.
Friday, 13 February 2009
slipping?
Today should have been a power endurance training session, doing circuits down at the Works. It should. Instead I went for a bouldering session at the Matrix with some mates. The horror! Surely I should be sticking to my training plan, this lapse might cost me in Mallorca!
Nah. From the outset, my training plan has been flexible, dynamic. Today was great, just bouldering with friends, coming up with some eliminates and having a bit of friendly competition. Plus, I felt really strong. Somehow, my lock off strength seems to have improved and I was able to get up some quite powerful problems.
If anything I'm even more motivated for my power endurance training after a short break. Two more sessions next week then I'll try beat my best onsight grade on the weekend. After that its a whole new training phase and I'm still trying to decide what is going to work best.
Power or stamina? Power or stamina? Power or stamina?
Nah. From the outset, my training plan has been flexible, dynamic. Today was great, just bouldering with friends, coming up with some eliminates and having a bit of friendly competition. Plus, I felt really strong. Somehow, my lock off strength seems to have improved and I was able to get up some quite powerful problems.
If anything I'm even more motivated for my power endurance training after a short break. Two more sessions next week then I'll try beat my best onsight grade on the weekend. After that its a whole new training phase and I'm still trying to decide what is going to work best.
Power or stamina? Power or stamina? Power or stamina?
Thursday, 12 February 2009
stoney
I think I mentioned previously that I was going to add a bouldering session into my training programme. Well, yesterday me and a friend were lamenting our lack of outdoor climbing, pulling on real rock. So, as the weather was gash, we opted for Stoney Middleton, the classic 80s training area.
A five pound bus journey and there we were. Minus Ten was soaked on the left hand side, but the right half offered excellent conditions and enough to go at. I repeated a font7b I had done before, Zippy's Sidepull, in a few goes. Its very easy once you have the movement down. I managed to flash a font7a+ dyno called megatron, which was suprising as I'm crap at dynos. I also got up an unnamed 7a+, battling through dripping wet holds.
It was a really good session, I was just glad to get outdoors. I was really psyched for Stoney too as I've just finished Jerry Moffat's Revelations. The only downside to the session was I felt really bad today, so I haven't fingerboarded today. Still Power Endurance tomorrow! Psyched.
A five pound bus journey and there we were. Minus Ten was soaked on the left hand side, but the right half offered excellent conditions and enough to go at. I repeated a font7b I had done before, Zippy's Sidepull, in a few goes. Its very easy once you have the movement down. I managed to flash a font7a+ dyno called megatron, which was suprising as I'm crap at dynos. I also got up an unnamed 7a+, battling through dripping wet holds.
It was a really good session, I was just glad to get outdoors. I was really psyched for Stoney too as I've just finished Jerry Moffat's Revelations. The only downside to the session was I felt really bad today, so I haven't fingerboarded today. Still Power Endurance tomorrow! Psyched.
Monday, 9 February 2009
power shortage
I had a session down the Climbing Works today, power endurance training on the circuit board. Before I got stuck into this though, I had a brief boulder. I was a little bit frustrated as I seem to have lost some of my bouldering strength, problems that I was flashing a month or two ago were not getting done today. I just have to remind myself that its not what I'm training for, its just a distraction. I have to keep my goals in mind.
Having said that, I'm thinking about including an intense campus boarding phase in my training shortly before my trip. This should give me the power I need to pull through steep sections. I have never managed 1-4-7 so I would make this my goal.
Today's PE session was pretty good. I reduced my rest time to 3.5 minutes. I expected this to curtail my laps at around 6/7 but I managed 9. I've got a feeling that some of this is down to knowing the circuit so well now so I should probably change it. Reversing it might do the trick without altering the difficulty.
Lectures start again this week, but I have free days on Mondays and Fridays so my training should continue as normal. It'd be nice to get outside soon, blasted snow!
Having said that, I'm thinking about including an intense campus boarding phase in my training shortly before my trip. This should give me the power I need to pull through steep sections. I have never managed 1-4-7 so I would make this my goal.
Today's PE session was pretty good. I reduced my rest time to 3.5 minutes. I expected this to curtail my laps at around 6/7 but I managed 9. I've got a feeling that some of this is down to knowing the circuit so well now so I should probably change it. Reversing it might do the trick without altering the difficulty.
Lectures start again this week, but I have free days on Mondays and Fridays so my training should continue as normal. It'd be nice to get outside soon, blasted snow!
Friday, 6 February 2009
well met, sir. well met.
My climbing spirit crossed a broad spectrum today, swinging from completely dejected to quiet elation during the course of the day.
The lowest point came after trekking all the way up the Burbage Valley, from Fox House to the Remergence buttress, to find a layer of snow steadily melting onto the problems I wanted to try. The whole of Burbage North sported a white veneer making any climbing impossible. I walked round to Burbage West as the faces were free of snow, but the run off from the top had soaked crucial holds.
Feeling low I walked back through the snow to the bus stop. While being ferried back to the City I decided to salvage the climbing day and rang up my friend Jonni to see if he fancied doing some routes at the Foundry. I'd decided to see how my training was going in real terms, to see if I could meet my short term goal.
I warmed up by leading a 5+ and then a 6a+. It felt good to climb routes again. Though they were indoor climbs it still felt like I was conditioning myself for a better Mallorca trip. I was also pleased that I was finding rests, even on smaller or non-positive holds, by throwing my heels up to take the weight from my arms.
After these two routes (and Jonni's two) I felt warmed up enough and got on with an attempt on a F6c+. The route I chose seemed similar to a climb I might find in Mallorca, a steep section followed by a headwall, all on pockets and non-positive holds. I set off up the climb and shortly after arrived at the finishing jug. I was mildly pumped but the whole affair had gone a lot more smoothly than I thought it would and I was delighted to have met my goal. I decided to test myself and jumped on another F6c+. This was less steep, but technical. Again I managed it with out too much effort!
One thing I have noticed about my leading is that, if I fumble with a clip, I panic. I begin to overgrip, my breathing increases and my heart rate elevates. I really need to get this sorted, just by leading more and getting used to clipping quickly and efficiently and from more difficult positions. To try and get myself over this irrational panic I climbed half way up a route, pulled up enough slack to make the next clip but let go before making it. It was a wholly uneventful fall but something I felt I had to do, to get used to it so I can go all out on an onsight attempt without worrying about coming off.
Meeting my short term goal has left my quietly confident that I'll be able to fulfil my main goal and onsight 7a+ in Mallorca. Its also given rise to a new goal, to feel comfortable making clips. Anyone got any tips?
The lowest point came after trekking all the way up the Burbage Valley, from Fox House to the Remergence buttress, to find a layer of snow steadily melting onto the problems I wanted to try. The whole of Burbage North sported a white veneer making any climbing impossible. I walked round to Burbage West as the faces were free of snow, but the run off from the top had soaked crucial holds.
Feeling low I walked back through the snow to the bus stop. While being ferried back to the City I decided to salvage the climbing day and rang up my friend Jonni to see if he fancied doing some routes at the Foundry. I'd decided to see how my training was going in real terms, to see if I could meet my short term goal.
I warmed up by leading a 5+ and then a 6a+. It felt good to climb routes again. Though they were indoor climbs it still felt like I was conditioning myself for a better Mallorca trip. I was also pleased that I was finding rests, even on smaller or non-positive holds, by throwing my heels up to take the weight from my arms.
After these two routes (and Jonni's two) I felt warmed up enough and got on with an attempt on a F6c+. The route I chose seemed similar to a climb I might find in Mallorca, a steep section followed by a headwall, all on pockets and non-positive holds. I set off up the climb and shortly after arrived at the finishing jug. I was mildly pumped but the whole affair had gone a lot more smoothly than I thought it would and I was delighted to have met my goal. I decided to test myself and jumped on another F6c+. This was less steep, but technical. Again I managed it with out too much effort!
One thing I have noticed about my leading is that, if I fumble with a clip, I panic. I begin to overgrip, my breathing increases and my heart rate elevates. I really need to get this sorted, just by leading more and getting used to clipping quickly and efficiently and from more difficult positions. To try and get myself over this irrational panic I climbed half way up a route, pulled up enough slack to make the next clip but let go before making it. It was a wholly uneventful fall but something I felt I had to do, to get used to it so I can go all out on an onsight attempt without worrying about coming off.
Meeting my short term goal has left my quietly confident that I'll be able to fulfil my main goal and onsight 7a+ in Mallorca. Its also given rise to a new goal, to feel comfortable making clips. Anyone got any tips?
Thursday, 5 February 2009
digit-al upgrade
Today's training was an extensive fingerboard session.
Making moves at the very limit of my abilities is what excites me in climbing. And where am I most limited? My fingers. The 8 digits at the extremities of my body have to work in concert to maintain contact with the rock so the bigger muscles in my body can propel me upwards (or sideways, I'm not adverse to a traverse.)
I love fingerboarding. The gains in strength are so clear, a hold that you could barely grip two weeks ago becomes a hold you can hang for a few seconds, becomes a hold you can pull on, becomes a rest. To me, as my fingers get stronger the holds feel physically bigger!
The routine I follow on the fingerboard lasts about an hour and is a combination of the thoughts of Rich Simpson (see here ) and the Beastmaker lads (see here). The Simpson plan I followed in the summer and after a couple of weeks was climbing Font7b fairly consistently (then I sprained my ankle!) and the Beastmaker advice on 4, 3 and 2 finger pairings I was following when I climbed the Terrace in November.
Dead hang open handed. (Hold 4)
Single arm hang on 1st joint edge, decrease resistance if required until hang can be completed. (Hold 2)
Hang for 6 seconds; repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting 1 minute between hangs on alternative arms.
Making moves at the very limit of my abilities is what excites me in climbing. And where am I most limited? My fingers. The 8 digits at the extremities of my body have to work in concert to maintain contact with the rock so the bigger muscles in my body can propel me upwards (or sideways, I'm not adverse to a traverse.)
I love fingerboarding. The gains in strength are so clear, a hold that you could barely grip two weeks ago becomes a hold you can hang for a few seconds, becomes a hold you can pull on, becomes a rest. To me, as my fingers get stronger the holds feel physically bigger!
The routine I follow on the fingerboard lasts about an hour and is a combination of the thoughts of Rich Simpson (see here ) and the Beastmaker lads (see here). The Simpson plan I followed in the summer and after a couple of weeks was climbing Font7b fairly consistently (then I sprained my ankle!) and the Beastmaker advice on 4, 3 and 2 finger pairings I was following when I climbed the Terrace in November.
Here's my routine:
Each set= Three, 6 second hangs. Resting two minutes between each.
Each set= Three, 6 second hangs. Resting two minutes between each.
Dead hang on front three fingers open handed. (Hold 3)
Dead hang on back three fingers open handed. (Hold 5)
Dead hang on front two fingers open handed. (Hold 2)
Dead hang on middle two fingers open handed. (Hold 5)
Dead hang on back 2 fingers open handed. (Hold 2)
Dead hang on small sloper.
Rest 5 Mins.
Dead hang open handed. (Hold 4)
Single arm hang on 1st joint edge, decrease resistance if required until hang can be completed. (Hold 2)
Hang for 6 seconds; repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting 1 minute between hangs on alternative arms.
Splitting my digits is particularly relevant to my current goals as the routes in Mallorca I aspire to climb will undoubtedly feature some variations of pockets. Thanks to the Beastmaker lads for opening my eyes to the joys of back two dead hangs. I might even buy one of their boards!
A few more weeks of this session and I'll feel confident slapping to the shallowest of pockets knowing that, if my feet lose contact, I can hang in there, chalk up and pull through to a bigger hold! Or kick my legs desperately at the wall until I actually shake myself off. Either way, I'm going to be loving the pockets.
A few more weeks of this session and I'll feel confident slapping to the shallowest of pockets knowing that, if my feet lose contact, I can hang in there, chalk up and pull through to a bigger hold! Or kick my legs desperately at the wall until I actually shake myself off. Either way, I'm going to be loving the pockets.
Tuesday, 3 February 2009
mesocycles
When I began training last week there were exactly twelve weeks until the Mallorca trip; three months.
My mid-term goal is to onsight F7a+, three grades harder than my current best onsight, F6c. Therefore, I reason that I can split my training plan into three month-long mesocycles with the aim of improving my onsight grade by one at the end of each month. This gives focus to my training and allows me to see clear, attainable goals by which I can measure my progress.
I plan to take a weeks rest before the trip, beginning the 8th of April so the 8th of each month is my deadline for achieving the goal.
My mid-term goal is to onsight F7a+, three grades harder than my current best onsight, F6c. Therefore, I reason that I can split my training plan into three month-long mesocycles with the aim of improving my onsight grade by one at the end of each month. This gives focus to my training and allows me to see clear, attainable goals by which I can measure my progress.
I plan to take a weeks rest before the trip, beginning the 8th of April so the 8th of each month is my deadline for achieving the goal.
Short-Term Goal
Onsight 6c+
by February 8th
Here's my training plan for the first month.
I feel my greatest weakness at the moment is my lack of power endurance. I am predominantly a boulderer preferring short and powerful problems and having flashed V6 and worked V9. This first mesocycle presents a sharp shock to my system, two sessions of Power Endurance a week, a stamina session and only one strength based fingerboard session.
The fingerboard session is primarily just to maintain my fingerstrength, I have quite strong fingers and good contact strength and don't want to neglect or lose this during my endurance training.
I'll reassess my weaknesses after this first mesocycle and draft the second month accordingly. It is important that I don't become sucked into following the plan rigidly; it has to be a dynamic plan. If I feel I'm overtraining, take more rest. Conversely, have more days on if I feel fresh.
Staying motivated to train isn't an issue with me but more on this in a later post.
Me gusta escalada! Adios.
Onsight 6c+
by February 8th
Here's my training plan for the first month.
I feel my greatest weakness at the moment is my lack of power endurance. I am predominantly a boulderer preferring short and powerful problems and having flashed V6 and worked V9. This first mesocycle presents a sharp shock to my system, two sessions of Power Endurance a week, a stamina session and only one strength based fingerboard session.
The fingerboard session is primarily just to maintain my fingerstrength, I have quite strong fingers and good contact strength and don't want to neglect or lose this during my endurance training.
I'll reassess my weaknesses after this first mesocycle and draft the second month accordingly. It is important that I don't become sucked into following the plan rigidly; it has to be a dynamic plan. If I feel I'm overtraining, take more rest. Conversely, have more days on if I feel fresh.
Staying motivated to train isn't an issue with me but more on this in a later post.
Me gusta escalada! Adios.
tengo blazos fuertes
The Blog
A sport climbing trip to Mallorca has been booked for April.
To get the most out of this trip I'm going to be training and this blog is a motivational tool. By putting my goals and my training in such a public place I can only be encouraged to train harder and meet those goals.
The Goals
I haven't done any sport climbing since the beginning of last summer. I had a few trips to Malham and was redpointing 7a+.
My overriding goal for the Mallorca trip is to Onsight 7a+.
A leser goal is to repoint a 7c, but there are so many amazing looking lines at lower grades in Mallorca that the route will have to be something really special to make me spend an afternoon trying it!
The Training
I'm into my second week of my training now. Yesterday I had my second power endurance session at the wall. To train PE I have been doing interval training on a 30 move, 6c circuit on a 30 degree board, resting 4.5 minutes between each repitition.
The first session I failed on the 7th lap, but this session I managed 12 before failing on the 13th. I am massively pleased with this. Its the first time I've trained power endurance and the shock of it on my system seems to have resulted in this massive improvement!
Next session (Friday) I'm going to reduce the rest to just three minutes between intervals.
I'll post soon my short term goals and my training plan for the next twelve weeks. I'll also post some pictures and videos for ultimate psyche!
A sport climbing trip to Mallorca has been booked for April.
To get the most out of this trip I'm going to be training and this blog is a motivational tool. By putting my goals and my training in such a public place I can only be encouraged to train harder and meet those goals.
The Goals
I haven't done any sport climbing since the beginning of last summer. I had a few trips to Malham and was redpointing 7a+.
My overriding goal for the Mallorca trip is to Onsight 7a+.
A leser goal is to repoint a 7c, but there are so many amazing looking lines at lower grades in Mallorca that the route will have to be something really special to make me spend an afternoon trying it!
The Training
I'm into my second week of my training now. Yesterday I had my second power endurance session at the wall. To train PE I have been doing interval training on a 30 move, 6c circuit on a 30 degree board, resting 4.5 minutes between each repitition.
The first session I failed on the 7th lap, but this session I managed 12 before failing on the 13th. I am massively pleased with this. Its the first time I've trained power endurance and the shock of it on my system seems to have resulted in this massive improvement!
Next session (Friday) I'm going to reduce the rest to just three minutes between intervals.
I'll post soon my short term goals and my training plan for the next twelve weeks. I'll also post some pictures and videos for ultimate psyche!
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