My mid-term goal is to onsight F7a+, three grades harder than my current best onsight, F6c. Therefore, I reason that I can split my training plan into three month-long mesocycles with the aim of improving my onsight grade by one at the end of each month. This gives focus to my training and allows me to see clear, attainable goals by which I can measure my progress.
I plan to take a weeks rest before the trip, beginning the 8th of April so the 8th of each month is my deadline for achieving the goal.
Short-Term Goal
Onsight 6c+
by February 8th
Here's my training plan for the first month.
I feel my greatest weakness at the moment is my lack of power endurance. I am predominantly a boulderer preferring short and powerful problems and having flashed V6 and worked V9. This first mesocycle presents a sharp shock to my system, two sessions of Power Endurance a week, a stamina session and only one strength based fingerboard session.
The fingerboard session is primarily just to maintain my fingerstrength, I have quite strong fingers and good contact strength and don't want to neglect or lose this during my endurance training.
I'll reassess my weaknesses after this first mesocycle and draft the second month accordingly. It is important that I don't become sucked into following the plan rigidly; it has to be a dynamic plan. If I feel I'm overtraining, take more rest. Conversely, have more days on if I feel fresh.
Staying motivated to train isn't an issue with me but more on this in a later post.
Me gusta escalada! Adios.
Onsight 6c+
by February 8th
Here's my training plan for the first month.
I feel my greatest weakness at the moment is my lack of power endurance. I am predominantly a boulderer preferring short and powerful problems and having flashed V6 and worked V9. This first mesocycle presents a sharp shock to my system, two sessions of Power Endurance a week, a stamina session and only one strength based fingerboard session.
The fingerboard session is primarily just to maintain my fingerstrength, I have quite strong fingers and good contact strength and don't want to neglect or lose this during my endurance training.
I'll reassess my weaknesses after this first mesocycle and draft the second month accordingly. It is important that I don't become sucked into following the plan rigidly; it has to be a dynamic plan. If I feel I'm overtraining, take more rest. Conversely, have more days on if I feel fresh.
Staying motivated to train isn't an issue with me but more on this in a later post.
Me gusta escalada! Adios.
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