well met, sir. well met.

My climbing spirit crossed a broad spectrum today, swinging from completely dejected to quiet elation during the course of the day.

The lowest point came after trekking all the way up the Burbage Valley, from Fox House to the Remergence buttress, to find a layer of snow steadily melting onto the problems I wanted to try. The whole of Burbage North sported a white veneer making any climbing impossible. I walked round to Burbage West as the faces were free of snow, but the run off from the top had soaked crucial holds.

Feeling low I walked back through the snow to the bus stop. While being ferried back to the City I decided to salvage the climbing day and rang up my friend Jonni to see if he fancied doing some routes at the Foundry. I'd decided to see how my training was going in real terms, to see if I could meet my short term goal.

I warmed up by leading a 5+ and then a 6a+. It felt good to climb routes again. Though they were indoor climbs it still felt like I was conditioning myself for a better Mallorca trip. I was also pleased that I was finding rests, even on smaller or non-positive holds, by throwing my heels up to take the weight from my arms.

After these two routes (and Jonni's two) I felt warmed up enough and got on with an attempt on a F6c+. The route I chose seemed similar to a climb I might find in Mallorca, a steep section followed by a headwall, all on pockets and non-positive holds. I set off up the climb and shortly after arrived at the finishing jug. I was mildly pumped but the whole affair had gone a lot more smoothly than I thought it would and I was delighted to have met my goal. I decided to test myself and jumped on another F6c+. This was less steep, but technical. Again I managed it with out too much effort!

One thing I have noticed about my leading is that, if I fumble with a clip, I panic. I begin to overgrip, my breathing increases and my heart rate elevates. I really need to get this sorted, just by leading more and getting used to clipping quickly and efficiently and from more difficult positions. To try and get myself over this irrational panic I climbed half way up a route, pulled up enough slack to make the next clip but let go before making it. It was a wholly uneventful fall but something I felt I had to do, to get used to it so I can go all out on an onsight attempt without worrying about coming off.

Meeting my short term goal has left my quietly confident that I'll be able to fulfil my main goal and onsight 7a+ in Mallorca. Its also given rise to a new goal, to feel comfortable making clips. Anyone got any tips?