enduring

I haven't posted for a while, I've been losing interest in writing about my exploits, but here's an update.

On the 16th March I had a fingerboard session that caused my elbow to swell up and hurt. Since then I've sacked off physical training, have been icing my elbow and generally just taking it easy.

On the 18th I had an awesome afternoon at Horseshoe Quarry with Matt. The weather was fantastic and we had a relaxed time warming up on the Rotund Rooley/School's Out Link (F6a) then climbing Shot Yer Bolt (F6b+) and Megalithic Man (F6b+) onsight. Megalithic Man felt so easy compared to Shot Yer Bolt, at least a full grade easier. I feel really confident onsighting this level but F6c just intimidates me and F7a even more so. I think I get too worked up about it, overthink it and underperform.

The next day I caught the bus out on my own to Raven Tor for my first ever session there. My friends had raved to me about the Weedkiller Traverse so my goal for the day was to tick it. I warmed up on some of the route starts - Boot Boys (6c), A Little Extra Direct Start (7a) and then got sidetracked by some of the powerful problems that an aquaintance was trying. I did Rattle and Hump the hard way (apparently) but it felt about 7a+ to me. I didn't try the easy way as the starting pocket was dripping wet.

It finally felt time to get on Weedkiller and after I was shown the best sequence I jumped on. My first go went badly, on the first hard pull my right hand shot off a crimp and I fell back-first onto a rock. I walked it off and got back on and had about three decent goes, each time failing around the second to last move. This was frustrating but also gives me a clear power endurance yardstick to measure myself by. Next time I'll do it. The session after that I'll lap it. Then Powerband.

I'd love to get Powerband done before I go to Mallorca. A couple of other traverses need ticking as well, Rose... and Jerry's Traverse on the Business Boulder and the Mid-Height Traverse on the Calf, Ilkley. These should provide good solo training!

After my Raven Tor session I had to go home to earn some money so I had 4 rest days. Then yesterday I had a really good power endurance training session, doing circuits on a F6c circuit with 4.5 minutes rest. However this time around I forced myself to simulate onsight climbing, moving slowly, chalking up, hanging around on good holds, and 'clipping' every 5 moves. This meant that I was on the wall for 2 and a half minutes, a minute longer than in my previous PE phase. I managed 7 laps, failing two thirds of the way round the eighth and felt completely boxed but totally psyched. Next session (Friday) I'm going to do 9 laps of it. I'm hoping that, as it did in the first phase, my body will react quickly to the power endurance training.

Tomorrow I'm heading to either Giggleswick South or Malham depending on the weather. Mallorca is fast approaching and I need all the fitness I can muster! Adios.