I've waited til now to post about CWIF '09 because the scores finally came out today. I scored 145 and this placed me 52nd. Not quite where I hoped to come, but to say it was my fourth day on I'm still pretty pleased. It gives me something to aim for next year too. To get into the top 40 I'd need around 170 points (if the same people showed up and didn't improve...) so I'd need to flash 3 more problems.
I had a fingerboard session this afternoon to ease myself back into training. I followed the Neil Gresham workout which is basically sets of pull ups. This didn't seem to aggravate my elbow very much and has got me a'thinkin'.
My elbow feels worst on deep locks when I'm climbing. Since most of my training has been deadhangs at about 120 degrees, this hasn't really prepared my elbow for such deep locks. Therefore, if I keep training pull ups and lock off strength, then maybe my elbow won't react as badly to deep locks when I'm out climbing!
You may have noticed its now March 10th (why is this year going so fast?!) and, yes, I have failed to meet my short term goal of onsighting F7a. Ah well. I did try, and I did it second go... I think the main problem was just the lack of real sport climbing. But this month, the weather will be better, I'm a hell of a lot more motivated for routes and I've got a list ten strong of routes I'm going to climb before Mallorca.
Top of the list is Rubicon (F7a+). I am determined to onsight this and I think it will be good to have a specific route to train for. Basically I need to get good at hanging around on a steep roof while I work out a sequence. Or alternatively get better at reading sequences.
Jerry Moffatt in Tom's Roof
Happy training. I'm off to rest some more before I tear down Stoney Middleton tomorrow. Oh yeah, I still love Stoney. In fact, after watching One Summer last night I love it even more. Jerryatricks this month? You can bet your arse!
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