I went to Stoney again today. I'm really enjoying it there and I feel that climbing on limestone as much as possible before my trip is only going to help my climbing in Mallorca!
I didn't get much done; Kirton's Dyno (7a+) went after a few goes.
I went to the Matrix after to meet my friend Toby, I seemed to peak very quickly. I climbed really well for ten minutes and then it all went to pot. I don't think I ate enough, I just felt really drained.
I'm resting now for a couple of days, it should be a climbing intensive weekend!
Wednesday, 25 February 2009
Tuesday, 24 February 2009
recap
I haven't posted for a while. Things to do, you know?
I've managed to keep climbing though. I'll just give a quick run through the highlights of the last two weeks.
13/02 - Had a good bouldering session at the wall and felt really strong.
15/02 - Did some power endurance training. Intervals on the leading wall at Leeds. It was really good, and a lot harder on a lead wall where you have to clip!
18/02 - Had a long session at the Foundry doing routes. Did around ten routes up to F6b+. Good times!
22/02 - Went to Shipley Glen and had a good boulder. Did a 7b I hadn't done before, plus a few other problems around 7a.
I think power endurance is going to take a backseat for a couple of weeks. I'm really really motivated to try and climb V10 while I'm feeling strong.
I've managed to keep climbing though. I'll just give a quick run through the highlights of the last two weeks.
13/02 - Had a good bouldering session at the wall and felt really strong.
15/02 - Did some power endurance training. Intervals on the leading wall at Leeds. It was really good, and a lot harder on a lead wall where you have to clip!
18/02 - Had a long session at the Foundry doing routes. Did around ten routes up to F6b+. Good times!
22/02 - Went to Shipley Glen and had a good boulder. Did a 7b I hadn't done before, plus a few other problems around 7a.
I think power endurance is going to take a backseat for a couple of weeks. I'm really really motivated to try and climb V10 while I'm feeling strong.
Friday, 13 February 2009
slipping?
Today should have been a power endurance training session, doing circuits down at the Works. It should. Instead I went for a bouldering session at the Matrix with some mates. The horror! Surely I should be sticking to my training plan, this lapse might cost me in Mallorca!
Nah. From the outset, my training plan has been flexible, dynamic. Today was great, just bouldering with friends, coming up with some eliminates and having a bit of friendly competition. Plus, I felt really strong. Somehow, my lock off strength seems to have improved and I was able to get up some quite powerful problems.
If anything I'm even more motivated for my power endurance training after a short break. Two more sessions next week then I'll try beat my best onsight grade on the weekend. After that its a whole new training phase and I'm still trying to decide what is going to work best.
Power or stamina? Power or stamina? Power or stamina?
Nah. From the outset, my training plan has been flexible, dynamic. Today was great, just bouldering with friends, coming up with some eliminates and having a bit of friendly competition. Plus, I felt really strong. Somehow, my lock off strength seems to have improved and I was able to get up some quite powerful problems.
If anything I'm even more motivated for my power endurance training after a short break. Two more sessions next week then I'll try beat my best onsight grade on the weekend. After that its a whole new training phase and I'm still trying to decide what is going to work best.
Power or stamina? Power or stamina? Power or stamina?
Thursday, 12 February 2009
stoney
I think I mentioned previously that I was going to add a bouldering session into my training programme. Well, yesterday me and a friend were lamenting our lack of outdoor climbing, pulling on real rock. So, as the weather was gash, we opted for Stoney Middleton, the classic 80s training area.
A five pound bus journey and there we were. Minus Ten was soaked on the left hand side, but the right half offered excellent conditions and enough to go at. I repeated a font7b I had done before, Zippy's Sidepull, in a few goes. Its very easy once you have the movement down. I managed to flash a font7a+ dyno called megatron, which was suprising as I'm crap at dynos. I also got up an unnamed 7a+, battling through dripping wet holds.
It was a really good session, I was just glad to get outdoors. I was really psyched for Stoney too as I've just finished Jerry Moffat's Revelations. The only downside to the session was I felt really bad today, so I haven't fingerboarded today. Still Power Endurance tomorrow! Psyched.
A five pound bus journey and there we were. Minus Ten was soaked on the left hand side, but the right half offered excellent conditions and enough to go at. I repeated a font7b I had done before, Zippy's Sidepull, in a few goes. Its very easy once you have the movement down. I managed to flash a font7a+ dyno called megatron, which was suprising as I'm crap at dynos. I also got up an unnamed 7a+, battling through dripping wet holds.
It was a really good session, I was just glad to get outdoors. I was really psyched for Stoney too as I've just finished Jerry Moffat's Revelations. The only downside to the session was I felt really bad today, so I haven't fingerboarded today. Still Power Endurance tomorrow! Psyched.
Monday, 9 February 2009
power shortage
I had a session down the Climbing Works today, power endurance training on the circuit board. Before I got stuck into this though, I had a brief boulder. I was a little bit frustrated as I seem to have lost some of my bouldering strength, problems that I was flashing a month or two ago were not getting done today. I just have to remind myself that its not what I'm training for, its just a distraction. I have to keep my goals in mind.
Having said that, I'm thinking about including an intense campus boarding phase in my training shortly before my trip. This should give me the power I need to pull through steep sections. I have never managed 1-4-7 so I would make this my goal.
Today's PE session was pretty good. I reduced my rest time to 3.5 minutes. I expected this to curtail my laps at around 6/7 but I managed 9. I've got a feeling that some of this is down to knowing the circuit so well now so I should probably change it. Reversing it might do the trick without altering the difficulty.
Lectures start again this week, but I have free days on Mondays and Fridays so my training should continue as normal. It'd be nice to get outside soon, blasted snow!
Having said that, I'm thinking about including an intense campus boarding phase in my training shortly before my trip. This should give me the power I need to pull through steep sections. I have never managed 1-4-7 so I would make this my goal.
Today's PE session was pretty good. I reduced my rest time to 3.5 minutes. I expected this to curtail my laps at around 6/7 but I managed 9. I've got a feeling that some of this is down to knowing the circuit so well now so I should probably change it. Reversing it might do the trick without altering the difficulty.
Lectures start again this week, but I have free days on Mondays and Fridays so my training should continue as normal. It'd be nice to get outside soon, blasted snow!
Friday, 6 February 2009
well met, sir. well met.
My climbing spirit crossed a broad spectrum today, swinging from completely dejected to quiet elation during the course of the day.
The lowest point came after trekking all the way up the Burbage Valley, from Fox House to the Remergence buttress, to find a layer of snow steadily melting onto the problems I wanted to try. The whole of Burbage North sported a white veneer making any climbing impossible. I walked round to Burbage West as the faces were free of snow, but the run off from the top had soaked crucial holds.
Feeling low I walked back through the snow to the bus stop. While being ferried back to the City I decided to salvage the climbing day and rang up my friend Jonni to see if he fancied doing some routes at the Foundry. I'd decided to see how my training was going in real terms, to see if I could meet my short term goal.
I warmed up by leading a 5+ and then a 6a+. It felt good to climb routes again. Though they were indoor climbs it still felt like I was conditioning myself for a better Mallorca trip. I was also pleased that I was finding rests, even on smaller or non-positive holds, by throwing my heels up to take the weight from my arms.
After these two routes (and Jonni's two) I felt warmed up enough and got on with an attempt on a F6c+. The route I chose seemed similar to a climb I might find in Mallorca, a steep section followed by a headwall, all on pockets and non-positive holds. I set off up the climb and shortly after arrived at the finishing jug. I was mildly pumped but the whole affair had gone a lot more smoothly than I thought it would and I was delighted to have met my goal. I decided to test myself and jumped on another F6c+. This was less steep, but technical. Again I managed it with out too much effort!
One thing I have noticed about my leading is that, if I fumble with a clip, I panic. I begin to overgrip, my breathing increases and my heart rate elevates. I really need to get this sorted, just by leading more and getting used to clipping quickly and efficiently and from more difficult positions. To try and get myself over this irrational panic I climbed half way up a route, pulled up enough slack to make the next clip but let go before making it. It was a wholly uneventful fall but something I felt I had to do, to get used to it so I can go all out on an onsight attempt without worrying about coming off.
Meeting my short term goal has left my quietly confident that I'll be able to fulfil my main goal and onsight 7a+ in Mallorca. Its also given rise to a new goal, to feel comfortable making clips. Anyone got any tips?
The lowest point came after trekking all the way up the Burbage Valley, from Fox House to the Remergence buttress, to find a layer of snow steadily melting onto the problems I wanted to try. The whole of Burbage North sported a white veneer making any climbing impossible. I walked round to Burbage West as the faces were free of snow, but the run off from the top had soaked crucial holds.
Feeling low I walked back through the snow to the bus stop. While being ferried back to the City I decided to salvage the climbing day and rang up my friend Jonni to see if he fancied doing some routes at the Foundry. I'd decided to see how my training was going in real terms, to see if I could meet my short term goal.
I warmed up by leading a 5+ and then a 6a+. It felt good to climb routes again. Though they were indoor climbs it still felt like I was conditioning myself for a better Mallorca trip. I was also pleased that I was finding rests, even on smaller or non-positive holds, by throwing my heels up to take the weight from my arms.
After these two routes (and Jonni's two) I felt warmed up enough and got on with an attempt on a F6c+. The route I chose seemed similar to a climb I might find in Mallorca, a steep section followed by a headwall, all on pockets and non-positive holds. I set off up the climb and shortly after arrived at the finishing jug. I was mildly pumped but the whole affair had gone a lot more smoothly than I thought it would and I was delighted to have met my goal. I decided to test myself and jumped on another F6c+. This was less steep, but technical. Again I managed it with out too much effort!
One thing I have noticed about my leading is that, if I fumble with a clip, I panic. I begin to overgrip, my breathing increases and my heart rate elevates. I really need to get this sorted, just by leading more and getting used to clipping quickly and efficiently and from more difficult positions. To try and get myself over this irrational panic I climbed half way up a route, pulled up enough slack to make the next clip but let go before making it. It was a wholly uneventful fall but something I felt I had to do, to get used to it so I can go all out on an onsight attempt without worrying about coming off.
Meeting my short term goal has left my quietly confident that I'll be able to fulfil my main goal and onsight 7a+ in Mallorca. Its also given rise to a new goal, to feel comfortable making clips. Anyone got any tips?
Thursday, 5 February 2009
digit-al upgrade
Today's training was an extensive fingerboard session.
Making moves at the very limit of my abilities is what excites me in climbing. And where am I most limited? My fingers. The 8 digits at the extremities of my body have to work in concert to maintain contact with the rock so the bigger muscles in my body can propel me upwards (or sideways, I'm not adverse to a traverse.)
I love fingerboarding. The gains in strength are so clear, a hold that you could barely grip two weeks ago becomes a hold you can hang for a few seconds, becomes a hold you can pull on, becomes a rest. To me, as my fingers get stronger the holds feel physically bigger!
The routine I follow on the fingerboard lasts about an hour and is a combination of the thoughts of Rich Simpson (see here ) and the Beastmaker lads (see here). The Simpson plan I followed in the summer and after a couple of weeks was climbing Font7b fairly consistently (then I sprained my ankle!) and the Beastmaker advice on 4, 3 and 2 finger pairings I was following when I climbed the Terrace in November.
Dead hang open handed. (Hold 4)
Single arm hang on 1st joint edge, decrease resistance if required until hang can be completed. (Hold 2)
Hang for 6 seconds; repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting 1 minute between hangs on alternative arms.
Making moves at the very limit of my abilities is what excites me in climbing. And where am I most limited? My fingers. The 8 digits at the extremities of my body have to work in concert to maintain contact with the rock so the bigger muscles in my body can propel me upwards (or sideways, I'm not adverse to a traverse.)
I love fingerboarding. The gains in strength are so clear, a hold that you could barely grip two weeks ago becomes a hold you can hang for a few seconds, becomes a hold you can pull on, becomes a rest. To me, as my fingers get stronger the holds feel physically bigger!
The routine I follow on the fingerboard lasts about an hour and is a combination of the thoughts of Rich Simpson (see here ) and the Beastmaker lads (see here). The Simpson plan I followed in the summer and after a couple of weeks was climbing Font7b fairly consistently (then I sprained my ankle!) and the Beastmaker advice on 4, 3 and 2 finger pairings I was following when I climbed the Terrace in November.
Here's my routine:
Each set= Three, 6 second hangs. Resting two minutes between each.
Each set= Three, 6 second hangs. Resting two minutes between each.
Dead hang on front three fingers open handed. (Hold 3)
Dead hang on back three fingers open handed. (Hold 5)
Dead hang on front two fingers open handed. (Hold 2)
Dead hang on middle two fingers open handed. (Hold 5)
Dead hang on back 2 fingers open handed. (Hold 2)
Dead hang on small sloper.
Rest 5 Mins.
Dead hang open handed. (Hold 4)
Single arm hang on 1st joint edge, decrease resistance if required until hang can be completed. (Hold 2)
Hang for 6 seconds; repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting 1 minute between hangs on alternative arms.
Splitting my digits is particularly relevant to my current goals as the routes in Mallorca I aspire to climb will undoubtedly feature some variations of pockets. Thanks to the Beastmaker lads for opening my eyes to the joys of back two dead hangs. I might even buy one of their boards!
A few more weeks of this session and I'll feel confident slapping to the shallowest of pockets knowing that, if my feet lose contact, I can hang in there, chalk up and pull through to a bigger hold! Or kick my legs desperately at the wall until I actually shake myself off. Either way, I'm going to be loving the pockets.
A few more weeks of this session and I'll feel confident slapping to the shallowest of pockets knowing that, if my feet lose contact, I can hang in there, chalk up and pull through to a bigger hold! Or kick my legs desperately at the wall until I actually shake myself off. Either way, I'm going to be loving the pockets.
Tuesday, 3 February 2009
mesocycles
When I began training last week there were exactly twelve weeks until the Mallorca trip; three months.
My mid-term goal is to onsight F7a+, three grades harder than my current best onsight, F6c. Therefore, I reason that I can split my training plan into three month-long mesocycles with the aim of improving my onsight grade by one at the end of each month. This gives focus to my training and allows me to see clear, attainable goals by which I can measure my progress.
I plan to take a weeks rest before the trip, beginning the 8th of April so the 8th of each month is my deadline for achieving the goal.
My mid-term goal is to onsight F7a+, three grades harder than my current best onsight, F6c. Therefore, I reason that I can split my training plan into three month-long mesocycles with the aim of improving my onsight grade by one at the end of each month. This gives focus to my training and allows me to see clear, attainable goals by which I can measure my progress.
I plan to take a weeks rest before the trip, beginning the 8th of April so the 8th of each month is my deadline for achieving the goal.
Short-Term Goal
Onsight 6c+
by February 8th
Here's my training plan for the first month.
I feel my greatest weakness at the moment is my lack of power endurance. I am predominantly a boulderer preferring short and powerful problems and having flashed V6 and worked V9. This first mesocycle presents a sharp shock to my system, two sessions of Power Endurance a week, a stamina session and only one strength based fingerboard session.
The fingerboard session is primarily just to maintain my fingerstrength, I have quite strong fingers and good contact strength and don't want to neglect or lose this during my endurance training.
I'll reassess my weaknesses after this first mesocycle and draft the second month accordingly. It is important that I don't become sucked into following the plan rigidly; it has to be a dynamic plan. If I feel I'm overtraining, take more rest. Conversely, have more days on if I feel fresh.
Staying motivated to train isn't an issue with me but more on this in a later post.
Me gusta escalada! Adios.
Onsight 6c+
by February 8th
Here's my training plan for the first month.
I feel my greatest weakness at the moment is my lack of power endurance. I am predominantly a boulderer preferring short and powerful problems and having flashed V6 and worked V9. This first mesocycle presents a sharp shock to my system, two sessions of Power Endurance a week, a stamina session and only one strength based fingerboard session.
The fingerboard session is primarily just to maintain my fingerstrength, I have quite strong fingers and good contact strength and don't want to neglect or lose this during my endurance training.
I'll reassess my weaknesses after this first mesocycle and draft the second month accordingly. It is important that I don't become sucked into following the plan rigidly; it has to be a dynamic plan. If I feel I'm overtraining, take more rest. Conversely, have more days on if I feel fresh.
Staying motivated to train isn't an issue with me but more on this in a later post.
Me gusta escalada! Adios.
tengo blazos fuertes
The Blog
A sport climbing trip to Mallorca has been booked for April.
To get the most out of this trip I'm going to be training and this blog is a motivational tool. By putting my goals and my training in such a public place I can only be encouraged to train harder and meet those goals.
The Goals
I haven't done any sport climbing since the beginning of last summer. I had a few trips to Malham and was redpointing 7a+.
My overriding goal for the Mallorca trip is to Onsight 7a+.
A leser goal is to repoint a 7c, but there are so many amazing looking lines at lower grades in Mallorca that the route will have to be something really special to make me spend an afternoon trying it!
The Training
I'm into my second week of my training now. Yesterday I had my second power endurance session at the wall. To train PE I have been doing interval training on a 30 move, 6c circuit on a 30 degree board, resting 4.5 minutes between each repitition.
The first session I failed on the 7th lap, but this session I managed 12 before failing on the 13th. I am massively pleased with this. Its the first time I've trained power endurance and the shock of it on my system seems to have resulted in this massive improvement!
Next session (Friday) I'm going to reduce the rest to just three minutes between intervals.
I'll post soon my short term goals and my training plan for the next twelve weeks. I'll also post some pictures and videos for ultimate psyche!
A sport climbing trip to Mallorca has been booked for April.
To get the most out of this trip I'm going to be training and this blog is a motivational tool. By putting my goals and my training in such a public place I can only be encouraged to train harder and meet those goals.
The Goals
I haven't done any sport climbing since the beginning of last summer. I had a few trips to Malham and was redpointing 7a+.
My overriding goal for the Mallorca trip is to Onsight 7a+.
A leser goal is to repoint a 7c, but there are so many amazing looking lines at lower grades in Mallorca that the route will have to be something really special to make me spend an afternoon trying it!
The Training
I'm into my second week of my training now. Yesterday I had my second power endurance session at the wall. To train PE I have been doing interval training on a 30 move, 6c circuit on a 30 degree board, resting 4.5 minutes between each repitition.
The first session I failed on the 7th lap, but this session I managed 12 before failing on the 13th. I am massively pleased with this. Its the first time I've trained power endurance and the shock of it on my system seems to have resulted in this massive improvement!
Next session (Friday) I'm going to reduce the rest to just three minutes between intervals.
I'll post soon my short term goals and my training plan for the next twelve weeks. I'll also post some pictures and videos for ultimate psyche!
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