peaking

I'm still up in Bradford.

As I've said before, I've been working for the last 6 days straight so my only climbing has been two sessions at the Leeds Wall. Both sessions were just trying to climb 10 routes around F6b - F6c with Matt.

The first session I didnt' feel well rested, hadn't eaten properly and as expected, didn't perform incredibly well. I still managed to get a F6c done though.

The second session went much better. I felt much more energised and confident. The session culminated in me trying to onsight a F7a, the first time I'd tried this indoors. The route was up the steepest section of the main wall, so obviously had good holds. I spent a bit of time really looking at the route from the ground, going through the sequence in my head and I think this really benefited my performance, allowing me to climb quickly and smoothly through the steepness.

Onsighting this route has imbued a new sense of confidence to my preparations. I also purchased a copy of Sport Climbing +, a book I have been eyeing up for a while, and after reading it once I think I've already picked up some things that will contribute to an increase in my grade.

There's only 5 days 'til Mallorca now. I'm horribly excited, really psyched and completely focussed.

My last bit of preparation is to lose 4lbs, bringing my weight down to 10 stone, 5lbs. This would be the lightest I've been in years is an acheivable way of improving my performance.

from south to west

I've finished lectures for Easter so I've moved back up to my parents house in Bradford for two weeks before I go to Mallorca. I'm working for the next 6 days so I won't have much chance to take advantage of my freedom. A couple of evening sessions at Leeds Wall or Shipley Glen should keep me ticking over. And its a good chance to grow back some of the skin I've lost through the last couple of months. I haven't had a top layer on my right index finger for weeks!

Last Thursday I went to the Climbing Works and, as a demonstration of my current level of fitness, I climbed all but two of the new purple/spotty circuit problems that ranged from 6b - 7a.

On Friday I sacked off essay writing to take advantage of the good weather. Though I made a tactical error and went to Stanage for the afternoon. It was horribly greasy and I couldn't touch any of the problems I had come to try.

I searched for shade and played on Brad Pit. I got bored of the first move and set off to the Buckstone. As I'd hoped, the Buckstone Dyno (7b) was in the shade and I latched the top in 5 goes.

This was a good consolation prize for an afternoon where I spent more time walking than climbing!